Our departure from Japan was mildly stressful at the beginning but then turned into the usual grind of a long trans-Pacific flight. The bus that got the group to Itami airport was right on time (it arrived at Itami at about 6:40) but the line to get us all checked in was rather slow-- this being the downside of the Japanese "attention to detail" that we have all been praising up until now. The last two members of the group made it to the departure gate right as boarding was beginning; talk about cutting it close.
On the American side, no problems with customs or immigration. On the domestic connecting flights, the only problem was that Andrea had to re-pack the bottles of saki that she had been carrying and get them into her checked luggage. We knew we were back in the USA when, even after the baggage handlers were told that Andrea's backpack had fragile bottles in it, they nevertheless clunked them onto the conveyer belt without a thought to being gentle.
As far as I know, everyone made it back to their respective cities and homes, hopefully to a good nights sleep (I woke up at 2am, ready to start the day).
Patrick Hughes
Tour Blog
Greetings from Kobe. It is 6:15 a.m. and we just saw the group off with "Indiana Jones" Patrick, on the bus to Itami Airport in Osaka. In about 40 minutes, they will arrive at Itami, and take a domestic flight to Narita Airport in Tokyo. At 11:00 a.m. today, they will board their ANA flight to Washington Dulles Airport. So, all is well and everyone's family members will be seeing them soon.
Our thanks to the teachers for being good sports throughout our three weeks here in Japan, and for learning an amazing amount. I was so impressed by their reflections the last couple of days during meetings, their observations about Japan, and their ideas for teaching about Japan. They have "kept on trucking" despite heavy rains and hot, humid weather. They have ridden just about every form of transportation that Japan has to offer, and walked miles and miles. As I told them this morning, the special part of all that was their ability to interact with Japanese of all walks of life, on a daily basis, in a variety of situations. Throughout, they were good ambassadors for the U.S. and were graciously received by the Japanese they met, in part, because they made a good impression themselves as visitors to this country.
Hiroshi and I leave our adopted city of Kobe today for his home area of Nagano. Patrick will blog again after the group's arrival stateside. So for now, goodbye from Kobe and we'll see all of our group again in October in Pittsburgh.
Brenda and Hiroshi
Meeting for a group activity included a train ride to an unknown destination... but ended up as a great treat. We went on dinner cruise of Kobe Harbor.
Let the photos show you our last evening in Kobe. As I write this suitecase and carry on ready to go in just 8 hrs! See you all on the other side...
Darla
Japan Journal Day 19: Friday, July 16, 2010: 9:43 PM Kobe Time
Today was our free day, free Friday if you will. I had lots of ideas over the weeks how I would spend this day. Originally, I was thinking a hike in the mountains, but after hard core hiking with Brad and Scott, I didn’t think that was necessary. Another thought was to visit the Emperor’s Palace in Kyoto. This was the residence of the Emperor for over 1000 years, until 1868. But, I had already spent 2 days in Kyoto, and I didn’t feel like spending another 4 hours on crowded trains.
Then, sometime during our day in Osaka, I thought that I really hadn’t gotten to see much of Kobe, the city where our hotel was located. Why not spend the day checking out the local area? Well, I really didn’t want to just wander and find what I could find, so I conceived the idea of having our two Japanese speaking tour leaders, Hiroshi and Brenda, prepare a list of 10 sites in the Kobe area, and having whoever wanted to break into teams of 2 and get their picture taken in front of as many as possible. In other words, do our own version of the Amazing Race, Kobe.
At one point in Osaka, I had 8 people on board, but one by one they abandoned the idea, and by morning it was just Jae and I. Thus, we were racing daylight rather than other teams. After a team meeting from 9-10 for all team members not going to Kyoto [that group had already left], Jae and I got our list from Brenda, and went to my room to Google the ones we couldn’t find on our map. The course was challenging, we would need to use 5 forms of transportation [walking, taxi, bus, train, and cable car – there was also something called a ‘Port Liner’ but it was a modern train that felt like a monorail]. In addition, we would need to go all over town, and even hit two sites outside of town. The final destination was to make it to Okomoto by 7:00 PM, where we would meet up with a group of sushi fans.
Our first stop was walkable from the hotel – ½ mile or so. The skies were lightly clouded, the air was hottish, and the humidity level was high. For those of you into meteorology, the dew point here is 75 right now. Our first objective was a local gardens. Had we more time, we might have actually gone in, but it was 300 yen, and we really didn’t know how this day would go.
From the gardens, we walked south towards Chinatown, our second objective. Had we gone straight, we would have arrived in ¾ of a mile. As it is, we walked 2 miles. Much of the walk was along a covered street – so we did not roast too badly. In China town we had the assignment to eat Chinese street food. It was early yet, and hot, so Jae and I each bought a dumpling for 50 yen each. They were like raw bread dough on the outside, and like broiled pork on the inside.
From Chinatown, we had to catch the train to Sannomiya, to change to the Hankyu line to the Rokko stop to get to the student coop at the University of Kobe, Rokko Campus. This was the same campus we visited before, so we knew the way. If you are ever in Kobe, it is simple. Take the Hankyu line to the Rokko station. Then walk uphill until you melt into the pavement. Although we pretty much knew the way, we stopped and ask directions from a couple of Mormon Missionaries. Yes, they are everywhere in Japan. There is freedom of religion here.
If you remember the view from the campus, you might imagine the hill to get to campus. It was tough. My entire shirt was already wet/damp, and I had purchased a bottle of drink from a vending machine and drained it. We bought a few items at the coop and got our picture taken. We also bought a large bottle of water. We refilled our smaller bottles, and took the rest along as well. This water lasted about an hour.
Our next objective was tougher. We were to take the Rokko Cable Car to Rokko Sanjo Station. This was tougher because our map was not to scale, did not include many side streets, did not label the streets it showed, and rendered landmarks in cartoon format. One thing we knew, we had to hike yet higher up the mountain. We stopped several people to ask directions. A random man on the street, a mailman in his truck with the black cats on the side, two students who discussed between themselves the best way to get there, until admitting that they really didn’t know. In the end we reasoned that if we went further up the mountain, we were bound to see it. We took a street that seemed a direct route.
About half way up the street, a electrical crew was working on power lines. We asked again, this time they pointed further up the street we had chosen. It was still a long way straight up. It was hot. Did I mentioned the humidity? Up we climbed. When we arrived at the cable car station, we had to way of knowing how far up the mountain it would take us. After pictures outside, we purchased round trip tickets and waited to be boarded.
That cable car, as it turns out, is actually two cars that counter balance one another and pass half way [exactly] up and down the mountain. That way, a minimum of power is required to lift the weight up and down the mountain. This made the Shin Kobe ‘Ropeway’ look like an amusement park ride. We just kept going up and up and up. It was more like the cable car at Koyasan, but was a longer ride. When we stepped off at the ‘top’, we had to climb a number of stairs, and we were amazed at the change of climate!
The humidity had dissipated, the temperature had dropped, and we were feeling downright comfortable. The sun put in an appearance and we quickly ran to catch our first view. Wow! What a stunning view from up here! We must have climbed over 3000 vertical feet! The view was amazing. We went from view point to view point trying to see as much of the view as possible. We could see Osaka, we could see Kobe, we could see the inland sea, we could see majestic billowing cumulus congestus clouds. There was also a group of 1st graders there for a field trip [yes, Japanese students are still in school!] and they were cute running around bumping into each other. There were several parent volunteers and teachers, just like a field trip in the US.
We could not stay long, so we descended with the next car. After exiting the station, we hopped on a bus that was bound for the railroads down the hill. It saved time, and did not cost much money. We took the JR Train to Sannomiya where we headed on foot to a section in the North of town that was settled by westerners around the turn of the 20th century who built western style mountains many of which survive to this day. Many of these people donated their homes to the city when they died. Some are museums now, and one was even converted into a Starbucks!
We took our picture in front of the two assigned houses, and made our way back down. Did I mention the houses were perched at the foot of the mountain? You can actually see some of them if you Google Kitano, Kobe. We saw the Weathercock house and the Moegri. Did I mention it was humid? By this point in the day, I already had white streaks on my shirt from dried sweat salt.
Next on the list was to take the Port Liner to Port Island. The “Port Liner” sounds like a ship, but is actually a newish train that runs from Sannomiya station due south onto the man made island called Port Island that liquefied and sank during the 1995 earthquake. It is a beautiful island in part because it is spread out, like in the states, rather than being all crammed together like on the mainland. In addition to convention centers and office buildings, there was a sports center that had a pool in summer and a short track [like in the winter Olympics] in winter. There is also the headquarters of the UCC Coffee Company. We took our photo and walked on.
Our next target was Harborland. This was across Kobe Harbor from Port Island. Our hope was to catch a ferry across, but after walking several miles on the island, and not getting any closer to our destination, we decided to use our taxi ride. As part of the deal, we decided ahead of time that we could take one taxi ride. This was it. The ride cost 1460 yen – well worth it. Traffic slowed our progress and gave us a chance to rest in a very comfortable air conditioned taxi cab. Did I mention it was humid?
The time was past 5:00 now, and we had to rendezvous at 7:00 with more of the team in Okomoto for sushi – our last time at what had become for many their favorite place to eat. It was pushing 6:00, but when we got to Harborland, we saw roller coasters, parks, and a huge Ferris wheel. This was not as massive as the London Eye, but it was larger than the typical fair ground variety by far. There were two cars on the wheel that were specially made out of all plexiglass so you could see in every direction, even down! We looked at each other and shrugged, it was only 100 yen extra per person, so we said – “Why not?” In discussing the matter tickets in hand, we laughed to discover that we were both afraid of heights. It was a nerve wracking but very cool view.
Our victory dinner was at the Okomoto Sushi Place. Although we only got 8 out of the 10 objectives, we felt quite satisfied with ourselves. We walked, rode, and were driven all over the place, got practice using the mass transit system, got to know the city of Kobe MUCH better, and had a great time doing it.
Tim Jekel
Susan Brown
The Park School
July 17, 2010
Final Reflections from Japan
Throughout our travels in Japan I’ve been struck by cultural differences—little things that distinguish east from west, Japan from the United States.
I’ve been impressed with how gracious everyone is—but it is more than mere graciousness. Japan is a society that is oriented to service and people take care of you whether you are in a store, at Starbucks (where we’ve been often—a little bit of home), or lost on the street (we’ve been taken by the hand and led to the right bus stop or building as we’ve blundered along). Everything is done with patience, a smile and concern. People will attempt to speak English, particularly young people who have been abroad to English-speaking countries, but everyone is very appreciative of “arigotou” (thank-you) and “gozaimasu” (basically have a good day) in Japanese.
Like so many places, the geography has helped shape and define cities. Japan is a country roughly the size of California with a population 3 ½ times larger than of the Golden State. The terrain is much more mountainous than California so there is nowhere near the same amount of available land. Cities are compact, with space being vertical instead of horizontal. As we’ve traveled around by train I’ve been struck by the apartment houses that sit next to gardens that are in turn next to rice paddies that but up against a tiny parking lot, etc. All space is used.
Shinto Shrines and Buddhist Temple pepper the landscape: many old, some new, almost all with beautiful grounds. They are peaceful environments that seem to welcome all. It has been a real educational experience learning about both faiths and how they intertwine ceremonies and practices. Having seen the buildings and the grounds it is easier to understand the rites and practices.
The conversations I’ve had with my colleagues about Japanese culture, religion, philosophy and art and how we will bring what we have seen and learned back to our classrooms have been among the best experiences of trip. There is so much to think about, assimilate and translate into lessons.
While the trip has been exhausting, the sights, sounds, food and collegial exchanges have been well worth the exhaustion. It’s been a wonderful experience in so many ways.
Ahhh Kobe, our home away from home. Today was a hot and smultry day. I ventured out to the Sorakuden Garden.
Sorakuden is widely regarded as the city's premier Japanese garden. The garden dates back to 1885, but has seen additions since then. The garden has seen devistation from fire bombing duirng WWII and a magnificent mansion and may supplimentary buildings are gone. However, the European-style stable and the surrounding walls and gates remain. Later, on the grounds, two histrically cultural properties- buildings- were moved to the site- the Hassam House and Funayakata. The Funayakat is extremly interesting, as it is the last "Kawagozaune" (houseboat) in existence. It was used for pleasure cruises by a feudal lord of Himeji and is thought to be constructed between 1682 and 1704! Also, the Sorakeun Kaikan and a tea house were constructed on the grounds.
I paid 300Y for admission, and it was well spent on such grounds! I was the only patron, two gate keepers were quite chatty upon my arrival, and two gardeners were tending the flawless grounds.
When looking at the image, pleas remember, the garden is nestled in the metropolitian city of Kobe- the contrast of buildings is quite astonishing.
I then ventured back towards the Hotel and stopped in my lucky break of the day, a very small ceramics gallery and "eco house" gallery. Pretty neat, and great deals on ceramics! There were images of the homes that were new construction that are eco friendly as well as a few ceramics and painted fans.
Then, another few blocks on the way towards the hotel, I entered the Kobe Kitana Meiser Garden- a handicraft center that housed baked goods and food items on one level, handicrafts and arts on the second and a concert area on the third. I picked up some glass items in the TOMAS GLASS LAB workshop and gallery. I had a wonderful conversaion with the artist as she made beads.
IT was a slow paced day that showed me parts of Kobe that were right outside the hotel, just not the direction we travel daily. Truly calm and relaxing.
Independent Day in Kyoto
Today Kelly, Sharen, Kachina, Amy, Julie and I spent our free day in Kyoto exploring the Fureaikan (Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts) and Kyoto International Manga Museum.
At Fureaikan we learned about the many traditional crafts of Japan that artists are stilling practicing today. We saw how fans, kimonos and lacquer ware were made – just to name a few. There were artists at the center demonstrating their crafts and there were many videos explaining the process that are not available to purchase. We were very sad about this! Even though the museum was free we supported the local artists by purchasing many fine pieces of art.
We had a lovely Korean lunch along are way to subway station. The food was excellent, but our favorite part was the bathroom. When you flush the toilets that when you can wash your hands in sink on the lid of the toilet. See picture below. It is an engineering wonder!
Our final stop was at the Manga Museum. The only museum of it’s kind in the world. The museum was three floors of library/art studio/gallery/museum shop. It was filled with an array of diverse visitors. The different people we noticed were from India, France, Belgium, Korean, United States, and the UK. After viewing the exhibits a couple of our non-manga believers were converted and learned to appreciate Manga as art.
After a successful, stress-free train/subway ride there and back we treated ourselves to one of our favorite little desserts that only cost 150 yen. They are lusciously little doughnuts filled with vanilla ice cream. Yum!
Lisa Allswede
Julie O’Leary
The day began with a very stimulating and technical lecture by Dr. Tanaka about the major lessons learned from the 1995 Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake. The group learned about the country's reaction, research and newly implemented policies used today. After the lecture the group had the opportunity to view a traditional Japanese home once owned by a famous poet, which he donated to the university after the earthquake. Then, Dr. Tanaka treated everyone to lunch in the faculty lunchroom.
After lunch we moved on to the Disaster Reduction and Human Renovation Institution (DRI). This space was dedicated to the 1995 earthquake and water disasters. The DRI used images, movies, artifacts, simulations and experiments to educate people about natural disasters. During our visit we had two personal tour guides who stealthy accompanied us throughout the entire building. We had two tour guides for six of us - it was magical. Another magical aspect was the Forest room where we watched a movie about the benefits and disasters caused by water. How it helps to ensure the life a platypus, but can shut down an entire metropolitan area as it did in Kobe in 2009.
Some individuals chose to escape to the Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art to view the Reiko Exhibit. The people were floored by the European influence on modern Japanese art. What was most shocking was the lack of availability of these works of art to those outside of Japan. One would not be able to see how Rodin influenced Yanagihara Yoshitatsu. Some of our favorite pieces were "Nude" by Koide Narashige and "Chorus" by Koiso Ryohei. Check out these modern art loving dudes.
And the second part of our mini-bus tour took us to the Otsuka Museum of Art ... or as someone else called it ... "The Fake Art Museum" ... oh, yes ... there is a story here, my friends ...
Housed in the largest exhibition space in Japan (total floor space is a reported 29,412 square meters) is a collection of over 1,000 ceramic reproductions of master works in Western Art. The museum was funded by the Otsuka Pharmaceutical Group, which established a committee of six Japanese art historians who decided on the works to be reproduced in the identical sizes of the originals. And if that is not curious enough, our tour guide was neither man nor woman ... in fact, it was not human, but instead was a robot named Art-kun, who debuted at the museum in July of 2009. Art-kun lead the group around the museum for an hour before we broke into smaller groups to tour the museum.
The general reaction of the group to Art-kun - ours as well as bystanders we would encounter along the way - was puzzled amazement ... was this really happening? Were we really standing and gazing at a full-size reproduction of Michelangelo's Sistine Ceiling while this self-propelled robot spoke about the significance of the work? In fact, were we still even in Japan? The answer of course, is yes ... yes, this is happening; yes, we are listening to a machine; and yes, we are still in Japan. In fact, I think only in Japan could one find such an interesting and unique use of technology ...
As someone who has seen the Sistine Ceiling "for real," the experience in Japan was far different, and yet, in some ways - dare I suggest it? - better. There were no large crowds hustling about; we had the exhibition space to ourselves. No one was screaming over and over in Italian, English, and French ... "no photos, no photos!" Instead, it was quiet and serene ... and yet, because I knew I was looking at a reproduction, I made no effort to really engage with the work itself, but instead was awed by the sheer space the fresco inhabited. And then I realized, this is exactly what I did when I saw the actual work by Michelangelo in the Vatican ... too overwhelmed by the crowds and the noise, I really could only appreciate its grand size. And then I realized that the experience of the Japanese replica was, in a way, more enriching than my experience at the Vatican, as the Sistine Ceiling sits so high above one's head, it was hard to discern the colors or figures; moreover, the lighting was poor, also creating a less than ideal viewing situation. At the Otsuka Museum of Art, the ceiling was well lit, and the work was placed far lower than the ceiling actually sits in the Vatican; moreover, the space was accessible from the second floor, thus enabling an even closer look at the work.
I know the ceiling I was looking at today was not "the real deal" ... however, I would argue that depending upon who you ask, there is little point in studying the Sistine Ceiling as it presently appears as the work of Michelangelo. In 1980, the ceiling underwent a massive restoration, much to the dismay of many art historians, who claim that the fresco was cleaned too vigorously, and its brighter colors are not what the artist originally intended. Who is to say .. the work dates from 1508 to 1512; in less than 50 years, damage from a leaking ceiling was evident, necessitating restoration and cleaning, which started in the 16th century and happened numerous times prior to its most recent cleaning.
The Otsuka Museum of Art was undoubtedly a "greatest hits" of the art of the Western world ... my enthusiasm was admittedly utterly unchecked as I moved from room to room ... there was the Villa of the Mysteries ... an Etruscan tomb ... Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora! The Arena Chapel frescos! Six works by Caravaggio! Leonardo's Last Supper ... before and after restoration! Manet's Olympia ... and his Luncheon on the Grass! The list goes on and on ... as did the photos ... I must sincerely thank Jae, Karina, Kelly, and Amy for their patience as I made each of them take photo after photo of me. Here I am next to the Mona Lisa, me posing with the Lady Regents by Frans Hals ... oh, and there I am, nearly TOUCHING the Arnolfini Wedding Portrait! And in the midst of all of this I realized, this is like Disney World for art historians ... and as much as I adored every moment of the experience, it was a bit like a game. A really great game ... but I was awed by scale and sheer volume, not by the actual pieces themselves, something that Lisa noted as we discussed the experience on the ride home.
As I paged through the museum brochure later, I realized that while there was a great deal of technology involved in the creation of these ceramic reproductions, there was also a surprising amount of hands-on retouching of the reproductions by other artists. Artists who have their own style, their own manner of holding a paintbrush or applying color. Perhaps that is why my beloved Olympia didn't seem quite right ... or the proportions in Titan's Venus of Urbino seemed off. In seeking to perfectly recreate these pieces, there is something important missing. And yet, I have never seen Manet's Olympia for myself ... or Titian's Venus of Urbino. But I could describe every inch of each of these paintings to you, even with my eyes closed, as I have studied them in countless books, both as a student and as a teacher.
Where does this leave us? With a lot of interesting questions ... who decides what is worthy of reproduction? What is authentic? How important is the actual experience of a work of art versus a reproduction? For my students who have been following my adventures via the blog ... you know where this line of questioning will lead. It is ultimately up to the individual to determine what constitutes art ... of course, not everything can be art, or the word would lose its meaning. However, I would argue that the works within the Otsuka Museum of Art can be called art for numerous reasons, even if they are, well, fake.
Today was a break from the hustle and bustle of taking the trains; it was almost too easy - a mini-bus awaited us as we departed our hotel! A quicker than expected ride (less than an hour) found us arriving at the "E-Defense" center (officially, the Hyogo Earthquake Engineering Research Center). This center was created in response to the Hyogoken Nanbu (Kobe) Earthquake, which occurred on January 17, 1995. In this horrific 7.3 magnitude quake, almost 6,500 citizens of Kobe and the surrounding region lost their lives, and tens of thousands more lost their houses. The economic consequences reached nearly 1 trillion dollars, making it the most expensive natural disaster on record. Construction of E-Defense began in 1999 and was completed in 2005. At this facility, Japan is learning to construct buildings and other structures which can withstand major quakes, or at a minimum mitigate the damage to less than catastrophic levels.
The major way in which testing takes place is though the worlds shaking table, which can simulate high level ground motions. The table (see attached pics) can simulate quakes of around 7.0 magnitudes; the engineers at the facility construct anything form small apartment type building to the top floors of much taller buildings (up to 30 stories, I believe). We watched video footage of simulated quakes, and saw how earthquake-resistant buildings can withstand quakes to a much greater extent than those that are not. On this particular day, workers were busy a model nuclear power plant, obviously to gain insights into how a power-plant of this type can withstand a quake. Pretty important research to gain, one would think!
After viewing the shaking table, we toured the rest of the facility - the facility was built along the major fault line of the Hyogoken Nanbu (Kobe) Earthquake. Therefore, obvious remnants of this disaster were readily observed (see attached pics).
In terms of how this experience shaped my thinking, I couldn't help but think that the Japanese became introspective in their approach to this horrible event. In the seemingly tried and true Japanese approach to dealing with a "defeat," they began a detailed look at the shortcomings to their response to the earthquake and maybe more importantly, how to avoid such destruction in the future. Now, new construction must be in accordance with earthquake resistance standards, and many existing buildings have or will be retrofitted to help avoid the calamity experienced in 1995. Simply put, in a manner that (in my thinking) arguably mirrors the response to the Hiroshima atomic bomb drop, Japan is in a mode of thinking of "never again." While Japan certainly cannot control the seismic activity of the earth, they can at least help to control the impact that the unpredictable forces of the earth can wreak on their country.
Today, Monday, July 12th, our merry band of travelers made their way back to Kyoto for a second day ...
The weather forecast called for even more rain, and so we started the morning in our usual manner, in the area adjacent to the main lobby, which has become our morning meeting spot to listen to the presentations on the day's topics. The highly air conditioned little alcove provides a sharp contrast to the warm and humid weather that we have come to expect here in Kobe. It also offers a perfect spot to watch the seemingly endless stream of people who are also staying here at the Hotel Monterey, as this space is strategically placed between the elevators and the desk. We have seen a wide variety of fashions, from nattily dressed businessmen to goth rockers, casually dressed women with children in tow, women in kimono, and young women who look as if they walked straight out of the pages of Vogue in heels that defy gravity ... a morning preview, if you will, of the wide variety of fashions that we will see - and occasionally gawk at - on the street.
Tim started with an interactive presentation that required audience participation as he used us as points upon the map corresponding to the area of Kyoto we would be visiting. Yours truly, along with Susan, held an umbrella horizontally between us to represent the walk we would later take. Lisa integrated her presentation on Ginkakuji, a zen temple, with Tim's, as this was to be a stop along our route for the day. My presentation was the final one of the morning, and I discussed the crafts for which Kyoto is famous, with a particular focus on ceramics and textiles.
We set off with only light rain, which was a nice change from the heavy rain we were walking through yesterday, to catch the series of trains that finally deposited us in Kyoto. Armed with maps of the area from Patrick, we set off to explore three sites ... the Kyoto Handicraft Center, the Heian Jingu Shrine, and Fureaikan, the Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts ... before regrouping and heading to see other sites later in the afternoon. The Kyoto Handicraft Center was our first stop, and with a small cafe on the top floor, it was also where many of us choose to eat a quick lunch. Fortified, we set off to explore no less than 7 floors of traditional crafts, including pottery, kimono, lacquer ware, metalworking, paper, woodblock prints ... it was a dizzying array of beautiful work by artisans, many of whom were working as we explored. In fact, Lisa realized after purchasing a woodblock print that the artist who created the piece was ... RIGHT THERE! He was a very serious-looking elderly gentleman who was so engrossed in his work that it seemed almost rude to interrupt him as he carefully carved long, flowing lines in a large block of wood.
Many of us found items to bring back home to friends and family, and even, perhaps for ourselves ... and in doing so, helped to preserve the rich and long craft-making heritage for which Kyoto is famous. This large, modern building, reminiscent of a mall, was a far cry from the centuries old streets which we wandered through in the rain on Sunday, but these works were made in the same manner, requiring both training and talent. While Kyoto offers its visitors numerous sacred sites to explore and enjoy, for me, Kyoto has offered a unique opportunity to experience living treasures, artisans who are creating items that have been made in the same way for centuries.
We made our way to the Heian Jingu Shrine, an overwhelmingly huge Shinto shrine built in 1895, that features one of the largest torii in Japan. Brenda asked us to think about the theme of our tour this morning - The Making of Modern Japan - as we revisited Kyoto today. Here was the perfect example of what I find so fascinating about Japan; the integration of ancient and contemporary. This beautiful shrine is literally surrounded by wide streets teeming with expensive cars and taxis with automatic doors (yes, they are really automatic!) driven by uniformed men . It made me think of the much smaller but no less significant Ikuta Shinto Shrine that sits adjacent to our hotel. As you wander though this space, you may feel like you are miles away from modern life, and yet, you have only to look up to see the various skyscrapers that surround it.
We did not have enough time to truly and properly explore Fureaikan, the Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts. A cursory and quick walk through the large space showed large gallery spaces with beautiful ceramics on the first floor; on another floor was display after display showing incredible examples of traditional Japanese crafts with detailed explanations regarding the various steps in making the work. This is most likely where you will find me on Friday ... this is when the group will be turned loose to explore at our leisure, with the ability to return to museums, shrines, or temples that we did not yet see, or want to see again.
It seems hard to believe that we are entering our final week of what has been, and continues to be a rich and varied experience, as there seems to be so much still to see and do. As we enter our third week, the group seems more and more like a family, and our conversations regarding our impressions, ideas, and experiences - here in Japan as well as in our professional and personal lives - have added a important and valued layer to this entire experience for me.
And yes, even when certain individuals made me believe that the carp in the stream adjacent to the Philosopher's Walk were responsible for the loud "plopping" that I kept hearing ... or other individuals made me believe that my large bag of goodies from the Handicraft Center (including a text written by one of our fearless leaders!) had been lost ... you are still my friends. Thank you for making me laugh ... and for the sing-a-longs that keep me smiling as we walk from spot to spot ... I think we need another night of karaoke, yes?
Kachina
Today’s adventure takes place in the city of Kyoto. There are over 1600 Buddhists temples, we were able to see two today, and over 400 Shinto Shrines, we were able to visit one today.
Kiyomezudera Temple, the Pure Water Temple, was the first stop of the day. We left Kobe by train to Kyoto Station. At Kyoto Station we entered cabs with beautiful doilies covering the seats that dropped us off at the street that leads us to this temple. The cobblestone narrow street was lined with shops. This area is known for Kiyomizu-yaki pottery. Just as we began the climb the heavens opened and it started to pour. Susan, Sharen, Andrea, and myself jumped into a coffee shop to wait out the rain. Because of this and shopping our way up to the temple we lost the group. Once at the temple we ran into them coming out of the temple. Us renegades spent the day together running into the group at the Kodaiji Temple and the Yasaka Shrine.
We made our way through Kiyomezudera temple. Andrea and I went up the hill to see the Jishu Shire, which is dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking. There are two stones 18 meters apart outside the shrine. It is said that if you can walk from one stone to the other with your eyes closed you will bring yourself much luck in finding love. We watched several men and women try it. Most were successful but the one was not. I am not sure what will happen to him. It was a very popular shrine so it was very crowded. We did not stay long.
The Otowa Waterfall is located at the base of Kiyomezudera’s main hall. This is how the temple got its name. The falls have been channeled into to three flowing streams and visitors can drink from two of the streams but not all three because that is looked upon as being greedy. I am the only one who tried this. One stream has the benefit of longevity, the other success at school, and the third fortune in love life. I will let you guess which two drinks I took. It again was very crowded and you had to use a long pole with a cup on the end to get the water. Not the magical of experience as I would have liked it to be but I did it and only time will tell if I really see the benefits.
After the temple we strolled and found a nice restaurant for lunch. We all had bowls of buckwheat noodles and vegetables with chicken or tempura shrimp. This bowl of soup hit the spot on an off and on rainy day.
We maneuvered through the raindrops some small some large to the Kodaiji Temple. This temple has very nicely laid out traditional Japanese gardens. They were all around the halls. I could not stop looking at the designs and layouts of them. This was a very nice tranquil place to get out of the rain for a while.
With sometime studying the map, we began walking to the Yasaka shrine. Andrea was key at figuring out the path to take. Thanks Andrea. At the shrine we meet up with most of the group. Exchanged the days events and came to the consensus that it was time to go back to Kobe. A group of about 10 ventured to the railway and made it back to Kobe all together. We needed to ask for directions/more clarification from several friendly and helpful people along the way. Many of us have noticed how friendly people are and how safe we feel here in Japan.
Coming Attractions- Pictures
Do to some technical difficulties I am unable to add pictures to my blogs. I am working on this.
By: Andrea Marterella, Pine Grove Area High School, Pine Grove, PA
As a child, I remember watching “The Price is Right!” during the summer. Like clock work, every weekday at 11 am, Bob Barker would say, “____, you’re the next contestant on 'The Price is Right'.” Come on down!” The audience would cheer and the contestants would come running down to take their places on Contestants Row. My sister, cousins and I would settle down and begin trying to figure out which game the contestant would be playing after they got up on stage. We would guess…
“Plinko?”
“No, they had that on yesterday,” someone would say.
“How about ‘Any Number’?”
“Yeah, you’re right. It’s so boring though!”
“I know! I know! ‘Cliff Hanger’,” Someone would yell. All of us would laugh in agreement and say, “Yep! That’s going to be on today!” I watched in amazement as our little friend, The Cliff Hanger and how he would climb up the side of the mountain and yodel. The contestant always hoping that The Cliff Hanger would stay on his mountain. I always found that odd. Why would someone find so much joy in hiking? It should be noted that I for one never actually, what most people call, hiked. To me a hike is to walk around the block or a mall with a sense of purpose. Typically, if I’m going farther than three and a half miles…I’m going in my car with a working air conditioner. Intentionally going walking in the woods or camping with bugs, other forms of multiple legged creatures and poisonous types of vegetation is not exactly my idea of a good time. But to each their own…
Our adventures began today at 8 am, at the start we were three men down; however, the remainder of the group was looking forward to our hike up to the Minoh Waterfall and all walked to the train station with such a great sense of purpose and excitement (Your’s Truly was excited as well, because as they say, “When in Japan, do what the Japanese do!”). We got on our first train and a fellow traveler, Tim, said to me, “So what do you have in your back pack for the hike?” I said, “You know- iPod, camera, book, bug spray- wipes with Deet and two cans of the spray bug repellant.” He looked at me in shock, “Oh, really? Nothing else?” At this point, I thought to myself, “I thought I had the proper hiking equipment: Water bottle, Columbia sneakers with proper tread, two different types of Clif bars, a lighter type top, two kinds of bug spray, hair up, roll-up pants to keep the bugs off of my legs, not to mention all of the electronics!” I asked, “Well, what did you bring?” His response and reasons behind each item, and please know that I’m paraphrasing here- Two pairs of socks-keep the feet happy, two shirts- one for while your walking one to change into afterward, etc. After listening to Tim and becoming more aware of the hiking culture, and my lack of proper hiking experience and necessities, the only thing that came to my mind was, "I'm screwed!"
After our fifteen minute trip on the train and a quick stop in a convenience store for our lunches we met our guides: Brad Grindstaff, a friend, and a few of Brad’s students. A fellow teacher, Ron, presented information on the Mino Waterfall. Ron stated that the waterfall is in the Osaka Prefecture. There are temples, an insect museum and shops along the trails selling many different items including toys made in this area. Also, in this area there is a hotel known for its elevators and views. After Ron’s presentation, Brad was quick to let the group know that hiking in Japan is not only to keep one fit, but also about chatting along the way.
We began our trip up the mountain passing by lovely little shops full of native crafts and touristy type items. “I can handle this hike,” said more than one of my fellow travelers. We saw a dachshund scurry by with his hiking gear on. The group reached a well kept temple. It should be noted that Minoh is known for the monkeys who inhabit it as well; however, most have been moved farther into the woods after many developed tooth decay from tourists feeding them. (Please see the picture of the temple and signs for further visuals.)
The group then came to, as Robert Frost would say, “Two roads diverged in a yellow wood/… I took the one less traveled by,/ and that made all the difference.” Mr. Frost, and my buddy The Cliff Hanger, would be proud of my fellow travelers and myself. Up the side of a mountain, down the side of a mountain, steps covered with wet leaves and moss, HUGE beetles (minimum four inches), spider webs and these fantastic views of creeks. A few times, looking over the edge, I thought, “I’m going to end up like The Cliff Hanger” right off the edge.” At one point we reached a place where the sign read something to the effect of “The Gates of the Underworld.” The rocks of the water bed looked a little treacherous, but not exactly- “The Gates of the Underworld.”
Yes, ladies and gentlemen it was hot and humid, but interestingly enough we kept the Japanese style of hiking in mind, chit-chatting along the way. After the gates of the Underworld we finally made it to the falls! BREATH TAKING! Simply beautiful! The beauty of our hike was INCREDIBLE! We saw so much natural beauty from snails, to mini-crabs, different types of vegetation and temples. A few members of the group ate lunch or snacks at the falls. Some stayed for a more trails and Merry-Go-Round Sushi and others went back to the hotel, but not before strolling through the town shopping eating Shaved Ice and Ice Cream. Fried Maple Leaf anyone? If you are wondering, a fried maple leaf tastes like a fried fortune cookie.
I will be going hiking again (beyond three and a half miles); however, next time I will be better prepared. Thanks for your suggestions Tim! I’ll be a professional in no time!
Japan Journal Day 13: Saturday July 10, 2010: 8:55 Kobe Time
If there was a day on the trip that was designed for yours truly, it was today. Today was all about hiking in to see not only the natural beauty of the Japanese wilderness, but also observe some ancient aspects of Japan not visible from denser civilization.
We took several trains to get to a town called ‘Mino’. Near this town is a famous falls called… Mino Falls. As we exited the train we met several interesting people, each in their own way. First, there was Brad. Brad is an American who has lived in Japan with a Japanese wife and family for several decades. He served as our primary tour guide for this portion of the day. Second was Scott. Scott was also an American who had married a Japanese wife and has lived in Japan for 35 years. Additionally, we hiked with three young women. One was Vietnamese woman named ‘Ho’ and was pursuing a Master’s in English focusing on Shakespeare’s comedy. Another was named Chie [pronounced ‘Chee-eh’] who was at university studying something or other. The last was a quiet one, whose name I never learned.
Our main objective was Mino Falls which was quite lovely. Construction has built a tunnel through the mountains near there, and it has cut into the flow of the river that feeds it. Eventually it will be completely unimpressive. The company that dug the tunnel is only responsible to pump water into the river for 5 years. There must be more to the story, but like most things, we don’t get the full scoop.
On the way to the falls, Patrick and I asked Brad about a staircase – where did it lead? He said it was less than 200 steps [hogwash, as it turned out] and said we could go up quick for a good view. We decided to go for it since a group was going to stop and view another temple. I consider myself an experience hiker, and in my experience, this was a crazy uphill. There were steps fashioned to make the ascent easier, but it was straight up the side of the mountain using switchbacks along the way. At the top, there was a gorgeous view of the valley. Jae and Amy joined us, and informed us that our detour had taken too long and that we should continue on and meet them at the falls.
This portion of the trip had the potential to turn into a fiasco, except for Jae’s unique background. There were three Japanese men at the viewing area at the top, and we tried in our fractured Japanese to ask the way to the falls. The broken Japanese wasn’t working so I asked if any of them understood English. None did, but one replied in Japanese: “Only Japanese and Korean.” Aha! Jae launched into his Korean, and for the next half hour, we had happy willing tour guides, and Jae made a new ‘Seoul brother’.
After joining the other group at the falls, thanks to our guides, we made plans for the rest of the day. Due to illness, our group of 17 was already pared down to 14. 2 more had declined to hike all the way to the falls. Several others decided the falls was enough and wanted to go back. Thus as we pushed on with the rest of the hike, we were down to the 5 new friends, and 8 others. There would be quite a bit more paring and dividing as the day progressed – but luckily some rejoining – but more on that later.
We walked a road and then a path up into the mountains. Coming to another split, we had another decision to make. We were about to join a section of the old Tokaido Road. When Ieysu Tokugawa unified Japan in the early 17th century, he needed to find a way to bring the independent minded Daimyo [warlords] to heel. Following a path similar to Louis XIV with his nobles, he required each Daimyo to spend a portion of each two years in Edo. Forced to make the 260 mile trek over the mountain trails with their families and retinue, this drained the finances and energies of the Japanese nobility so they would not pose a threat to the Tokugawa. In addition, each Daimyo had to maintain two houses, one at home, and one in Edo.
Thus we had the chance to walk a portion of what the samurai of old had to – sort of like Japan’s Appalachian Trail, but crackling with history as old as the Pilgrims. Since the historic road promised to be a more difficult hike, the group split again, with most of the group taking the low road, and Scott, Patrick, Jae, and myself taking the historic trail with Scott serving as guide. This was a significant climb, again with concrete steps, [molded to look like logs] but quickly up. We passed ancient concrete pillars announcing in Japanese Kanji characters the prefecture borders and town lands. Originally, there were lodging towns that sprang up to service the traveling nobles, but all that has gone except for the occasional Buddhist monastery or Shinto Shrine along the way. As we walked, Scott talked about his experience in the Kobe earthquake, losing half his house and going without running water for 4 weeks. He said a building down his street had collapsed killing 40 inside. He also talked sports, his perception of the US having lived overseas so long, and the unique benefits of living and being retired in Japan.
The scenery and wildlife were spectacular, and I felt very privileged to be able to see God’s beauty in a brand new way. The 15 miles were quite invigorating. We rejoined the low road group at the Monastery, and we split again into the ‘wait for the bus’ group and the ‘hike one more mountain group’. This time, our split included both guides, the three young women, Patrick, Jae, and I. After a huge physical output, we were looking for a food place to celebrate our victory over the mountains. We took a series of trains to Okamoto where Jae and Patrick were hooked on a sushi bar – one where the plates of sushi come by on a conveyor belt like luggage at the airport.
As we entered, we saw that Hiroshi and Lisa were already there – enjoying the post hike feast already. We arranged to sit together and I feasted on food I have never had in my life. I have to say that I would not have expected to like raw fish, but it was spectacular. Everything tastes better after a hike, but I loved the raw tuna, the raw salmon, the blowfish, everything really, I ate my way through 9 plates before all was said and done. A feeling a peace comes over a person after a hike and a big feast – it is ineffable, but satisfying. A great day.
Tim Jekel – History Teacher: Bible Baptist School: Shiremanstown, PA
A Visit to Nara, July 9, 2010
Sharen Pula, The Park School
Our train sped across the basin of Kobe; the skyline punctuated the hillside. Storm clouds rolled across the peaks. The mountains, like sleeping dragons, awoke from their slumber. Puffs of heavenly smoke rose from their nostrils. The day's hunt would soon begin.
Our group sat quietly on the train--perhaps influenced by the hushed tones of the local people or just caught in the morning's reverie. The train stopped, we disembarked and after a short walk found ourselves in front of Kofukuji temple, one of the most ancient Buddhist temples in Japan. Here, in a beautiful 5-storied pagoda during the eleventh and twelfth century when the country was ravaged by civil wars, an army of soldier monks protected this structure from harm. Later in the same century, the Kofukuji temple was attacked and reduced to ashes. With efforts from the best architects and craftsmen the complex was rebuilt.
Our next stop was the Treasure Hall. As we walked through the hall, numerous wood sculptures stood as a silent but strangely eloquent testimony of the past glory of this temple. Behind one of the glassed in cases sat six monks of the Hosso Sect. Although I could not read the Japanese descriptions, their hand positions and expressive facial features seemed to tell a story of their own. One seemed to be a gentle spirit dispensing wisdom and guiding the common people on their journey through life. Another possessed a rather stern look that seemed to demand that others heed his words. Their eyes struck me. Like the icons of Ethiopia and Russia, these obsidian orbs looked deep into the souls of those who passed by.
In an alcove, a twelve hundred year old bronze lantern stood before us. Surprisingly, it seemed untouched by the ravages of time. I found this particularly striking. There are buildings in our own cities that exist no longer than forty years, and here before our very eyes stood this lantern, an erect and proud symbol of a time long, long ago.
Around the corner, was a fine bronze bell cast in 727 CE----the second oldest temple bell. Though rather sparse in decoration, it presented a simple form and elegant proportion. Another case housed 12 Heavenly Generals. They were sculptured in relief on wooden boards. The free representation of movement and remnants of decorative gold leaf made these figures spring to life. Their job---to guard the faithful--a compelling argument for believers. I got to thinking about how similar some aspects of religious practice are---lights, bells, disciples/saints, hand washing, and guardian figures.
It was time for lunch. We had the pleasure of a local culinary dish--Shabu Shabu--sort of a onepot wonder of beef, noodles and veggies. Quite tasty!
We headed for Todai-ji, a temple the Emperor Shomu had built in the 8th century. It is the largest wooden building in the world and symbolizes the inverse in the center of a lotus flower with a thousand pearls. We approached the Great south Gate. Along the way, the deer of Nara, protected animals in these parts since they were considered messengers of the gods, meandered on grassy areas as well as the main promenade. Some were in search of tasty handouts. Others were just curious about the strange two legged creatures that had invaded their space.
Within the walls of the temple reside many statues, among them the Great Buddha, a massive gilded bronze statue 16 meters high. Although it was an amazing experience to stare at the statues within, I found the approaches to the temple equally engaging. Along the walkway was a grassy field leading up to the temple. Pots of lotus flowers made me slow my pace. Peering through the foliage of low hanging branches, I watched as the steady stream of visitors with their umbrellas, floppy brimmed hats and other paraphernalia disappeared and the temple facade rose towards the heavens. Its massiveness set off by the gold horns resting at the highest point on its roof. My mind was quick to imagine life when these temples were symbols of wealth and power. The rain continued. The steady downpour was somewhat refreshing to the skin. As I left Todai-ji, I took one last look over my shoulder. This structure--this place--so steeped in tradition---so awe inspiring.
The group scattered to various corners of Nara--some searching for artifacts, some for good deals, some for food. By dinnertime, conversations about the day's events still peppered the table talk. "What if I had seen these structures when I first traveled abroad instead of Chartres Cathedral? Would I have fallen in love with them as I did the French Cathedrals? No doubt I would have!"
Click an image to zoom with description:
Posted by: Susan Brown
Post date: Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 04:54
Terms: None
A Visit to Nara, July 9, 2010
Sharen Pula, The Park School
Our train sped across the basin of Kobe; the skyline punctuated the hillside. Storm clouds rolled across the peaks. The mountains, like sleeping dragons, awoke from their slumber. Puffs of heavenly smoke rose from their nostrils. The day's hunt would soon begin.
Our group sat quietly on the train--perhaps influenced by the hushed tones of the local people or just caught in the morning's reverie. The train stopped, we disembarked and after a short walk found ourselves in front of Kofukuji temple, one of the most ancient Buddhist temples in Japan. Here, in a beautiful 5-storied pagoda during the eleventh and twelfth century when the country was ravaged by civil wars, an army of soldier monks protected this structure from harm. Later in the same century, the Kofukuji temple was attacked and reduced to ashes. With efforts from the best architects and craftsmen the complex was rebuilt.
Our next stop was the Treasure Hall. As we walked through the hall, numerous wood sculptures stood as a silent but strangely eloquent testimony of the past glory of this temple. Behind one of the glassed in cases sat six monks of the Hosso Sect. Although I could not read the Japanese descriptions, their hand positions and expressive facial features seemed to tell a story of their own. One seemed to be a gentle spirit dispensing wisdom and guiding the common people on their journey through life. Another possessed a rather stern look that seemed to demand that others heed his words. Their eyes struck me. Like the icons of Ethiopia and Russia, these obsidian orbs looked deep into the souls of those who passed by.
In an alcove, a twelve hundred year old bronze lantern stood before us. Surprisingly, it seemed untouched by the ravages of time. I found this particularly striking. There are buildings in our own cities that exist no longer than forty years, and here before our very eyes stood this lantern, an erect and proud symbol of a time long, long ago.
Around the corner, was a fine bronze bell cast in 727 CE----the second oldest temple bell. Though rather sparse in decoration, it presented a simple form and elegant proportion. Another case housed 12 Heavenly Generals. They were sculptured in relief on wooden boards. The free representation of movement and remnants of decorative gold leaf made these figures spring to life. Their job---to guard the faithful--a compelling argument for believers. I got to thinking about how similar some aspects of religious practice are---lights, bells, disciples/saints, hand washing, and guardian figures.
It was time for lunch. We had the pleasure of a local culinary dish--Shabu Shabu--sort of a onepot wonder of beef, noodles and veggies. Quite tasty!
We headed for Todai-ji, a temple the Emperor Shomu had built in the 8th century. It is the largest wooden building in the world and symbolizes the inverse in the center of a lotus flower with a thousand pearls. We approached the Great south Gate. Along the way, the deer of Nara, protected animals in these parts since they were considered messengers of the gods, meandered on grassy areas as well as the main promenade. Some were in search of tasty handouts. Others were just curious about the strange two legged creatures that had invaded their space.
Within the walls of the temple reside many statues, among them the Great Buddha, a massive gilded bronze statue 16 meters high. Although it was an amazing experience to stare at the statues within, I found the approaches to the temple equally engaging. Along the walkway was a grassy field leading up to the temple. Pots of lotus flowers made me slow my pace. Peering through the foliage of low hanging branches, I watched as the steady stream of visitors with their umbrellas, floppy brimmed hats and other paraphernalia disappeared and the temple facade rose towards the heavens. Its massiveness set off by the gold horns resting at the highest point on its roof. My mind was quick to imagine life when these temples were symbols of wealth and power. The rain continued. The steady downpour was somewhat refreshing to the skin. As I left Todai-ji, I took one last look over my shoulder. This structure--this place--so steeped in tradition---so awe inspiring.
The group scattered to various corners of Nara--some searching for artifacts, some for good deals, some for food. By dinnertime, conversations about the day's events still peppered the table talk. "What if I had seen these structures when I first traveled abroad instead of Chartres Cathedral? Would I have fallen in love with them as I did the French Cathedrals? No doubt I would have!"
Click an image to zoom with description:
Posted by: Susan Brown
Post date: Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 04:54
Terms: None
A trip by several of the (mostly) social studies, led by trip co-leader Hiroshi Nara, found us on the train from our base (Sanomiya) in Kobe, off to nearby the Ashiya neighborhood. We were in search of Jun'ichiro Tanizaki's (author of "In Praise of Shadows") museum. Not knowing precisely where the museum was, we meandered somewhat aimlessly through a tidy and neatly arranged Japanese neighborhood. In fact, for me, it was getting there that was most of the fun. What I will remember the most is how the Japanese seem to make such perfect use of space, seemingly creating everything "to scale." For instance, small cars = small driveways. Tight intersections mean use of mirrors to locate cross traffic. It all seems so logical and well-thought out.
Once we finally found the museum, we toured briefly but could only gain from it limited information as most of the exhibit was in Japanese only. However, it was a beautiful setting and made for a relaxing break from the stifling heat and humidity of the day. Hunger was beckoning us now, and since we could only find an Ikari grocery store from which to get some food, we were "forced" to grab take out dishes and, against all "rules", eat our lunch on the steps of the nearby train station. We received quite a few strange looks from the Japanese as we engaged in this unusual behavior! Then, it was travel by bus to the area in which the Sake breweries were located -- we were not to be disappointed! At the brewery we visited, we took a very brief tour of the Sake-making process, and then got to the good stuff - tasting samples of Sake! While I have had Sake in the past, this event illustrated the numerous ways in which Sake can be prepared and the many varieties it can take. As we made our way back the train station, we walked along a canal where cool, seemingly clean water flowed, giving Patrick and me the opportunity to get our feet wet - literally! It was quite refreshing.
Following all of this, we returned back to our hotel by 3:30 or so, giving me some time to get some pictures and videos organized and to get some rest. Later, Brenda led many of us to an Okinawan Japanese restaurant, allowing us to take in the culinary treats of this tropical location of Japan. It was quite a treat, indeed! On the way back to the hotel, I detoured from the group and went on an hour or so solo-excursion through the back streets of the Sanomiya neighborhood. It was just at this time, away from the group and on my own, that I finally had the opportunity to take it all in -- the bustling activity of a vibrant and diverse and distinctly Japanese neighborhood and commercial district. It was the first time that I sensed I "felt" Japan. Hopefully, there is more to come.
Big temples require big Buddhas, and today in the ancient Japanese capital city of Nara, we saw not only the largest wooden post and beam structure in the world, but also one of the largest bronze cast Buddhas in the world. The temple of Todaiji and its massive "Daibutsuden" (Great Buddha) were so overwhelming that it is difficult to even remember what we saw before that.
Sacred space in Japan is marked out in some pretty obvious ways-- and in the case of Todaiji temple, you enter through a massive gateway flanked by two fierce deities who would make Godzilla run away and hide under a mountain. Imagine yourself a humble Buddhist acolyte from the hinterlands coming to Todaiji to be ordained as a priest. As the massive Great South Gate looms before you, certainly you would begin to realize that your decision to follow the way of the Buddha must be the right one; for only those with the power of the Truth could possibly construct such a gateway. Yet any lingering doubts that you have would be swept away as you step through the gate threshold and you cast your eyes on the great Todaiji Temple itself. It is one of those structures that is so big that it seems like it is closer than it actually is-- until you walk towards it and it takes twice as long as you expected it to. Now, imagine that you have lit the obligatory incense offering on the way into the main temple and you immediately realize what it feels like to be a lowly toad-- for the Great Buddha, although serene of expression, looms over you. Fear and Trembling, indeed.
To give some sense of scale of the Buddha itself, one of the pillars of the temple building has a small tunnel at its base which is reportedly the same size as the nostril of the statue and which a person can, with a bit of squirming, fit through (Jae and Patrick actually did this, and for doing so will be assured of Englightenment).
But Nara is not only about the grandiose. There are a number of small Shinto shrines that are but a short walk from the Todaiji complex. Whereas the Buddhists must have felt that they had something to prove and therefore built vertically and horizontal behemoths, the Shinto shrines were impressive for their more human-scale. Whereas Todaiji is the Empire State Building and the Statue of Liberty all wrapped up in one, the Shinto shrines are like the local pub where you would go to feel like you are well known. Less awe, and more ahhhh.
The sacred can inspire by towering heights, but also by touching the comfortable. And on this day, the rain fell steadily on both the large and the small, Shinto and Buddhist, and on all of us witnessing the varieties of Japanese sacrality.
Written by Patrick Hughes
July 9, 2010
Today, July 8, was the groups’ first opportunity to explore Kobe on our own. A small group of us went off to the Kobe City Museum to view their collection of Namban art and other National Treasures the museum has to offer. Oddly it was only the art teachers in the group that went on this adventure led by Brenda. ☺
We started the morning by stopping by the Ikuta Shinto Shrine that is tucked away behind our hotel in Sannoyima’s shopping district. It is quite the contrast to the hustle and bustle of the modern daily life of the city of Kobe (see photos). Nonetheless, this shrine becomes a quiet little haven for many people to stop by and pay their respects or be reflective. Once each member in the group had the opportunity to soak in the beautiful architecture and ambience of the shrine, we headed for the Kobe’s City Hall. I thought it was a lovely way to start our day.
At Kobe’s City Hall you can see the entire city from the 24th floor. City Hall is located in Kobe's “downtown” area and I am continuously impressed by how clean the city is and the amount of thought and detail that goes into planning of landscaping through out the city. The view from City Hall is stunning and shows you the contrast between the ocean and the mountains (see photos).
Our next stop was the Kobe City Museum, where the group spent the majority of our time admiring the details of the each scroll and appreciating the process it took to create such artwork. Of course before we even started walking around the museum we stopped at the café to coffee/tea and cake (see photo).
We ended the day having lunch at an Indian restaurant close to our hotel. It was quiet tasty, but I think we were more impressed by the interior of the restaurant. It felt like we were sitting in an installation piece. It was a charming place to eat lunch (see photos).
Lisa Allswede
At 8:15 on August 6, 1945 life in Hiroshima, Japan changed forever. With no comparison on July 7, 2010 our lives have changed because of our visit to The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. All of us entered the museum with our own knowledge of the events of that day and time period but being on the grounds and seeing first hand the artifacts will alter the way we teach, feel and see this event in history.
The Museum consists of the Main Building and an East Building. The Main Building displays A-bomb artifacts and material to convey the events and conditions in Hiroshima on August 6, 1945. The East Building uses artifacts, models and photos to show the history of Hiroshima before and after the bombing, the development of the A-bomb to the bombing of Hiroshima, the Nuclear Age up to the present and the path to peace by the elimination of nuclear weapons.
As you pass through the exhibits you feel the anger, grief and pain of the people and the situation. You begin to realize the difficulties Hiroshima had to over come to come back form this devastation. You are amazed at the little if any resentment given the United States of America for dropping the bomb. You are humbled by Hiroshima’s strength to turn this devastating circumstance into a worldwide pledge and campaign to eliminate nuclear weapons to bring about world peace. Their wish is for a genuinely peaceful international community. Just as the name of the museum reads, The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, the focus is on the world remembering this event so it does not happen again and peace can come to the world.
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum is locates in an area known as the Peace Park. Many other sites can be found in this park. Many of us visited several if not all of these sites- Cenotaph for the A-bomb victims Memorial Monument for Hiroshima, City of Peace, Flame of Peace, Children’s Peace Monument, Atomic Bomb Memorial Mound and The Atomic Bomb Dome.
With heavy hearts and contemplative minds together we searched for Hiroshima’s specialty for lunch- steamed cabbage, sprouts, seaweed, meat, and noodles layered between a crepe and a crepe styled egg with a sauce added on top. All of this was cocked and assembled on a griddle right in front of you. The lunch received mixed reviews but we all enjoyed the preparation and presentation.
With the time remaining before we departed from Hiroshima all of us did some souvenir shopping so ask us for your present when we get home.
